It was immediately noticeable today that the volume of pilgrims had markedly increased. This is due to Sarria being at the minimum distance for a walking pilgrim to qualify for credential of completion, 100km-ish. A big difference was the coalescence of large pilgrim groups. Most groups stuck to one side of the track, or the edge of road. But one large group of Italian pilgrims (identified by large amounts of arm waving and distorted facial gestures), about 20 in number, occupied the whole road. This was unfortunate as I was in full descent mode, bearing down at warp factor 8 and was not eager to use my brakes. So a nice loud “Hola” gave my due warning and I passed, without reducing the the Italian population.
Pilgrims grouping up at the start of the day, leaving Sarria.

Fog soon enveloped us.

So in order to comply with Spanish regulations we donned our high vis vests. Prepared we are.

Later on. Note chap with the brolly. As it turns out he was about 8 hours early for the rain.

We had a choice of taking the N road, a more major road type, or more minor roads that followed the EV3. We chose the latter. This was a wise move as we had a canopy of trees providing some welcome shade.

We came across this mural painted upon an old deserted industrial building. This fella is gazing upon his cheese. I would go so far to say he loves this particular cheese. “Blessed are the cheese makers”.

Along the route we saw many of these buildings, long structures often high off the ground with wooden slatted sides (the one in the fore ground has been bricked up). We thought maybe they were for burials, or perhaps curing meat. But our host later told us they were used for drying grain many years ago and are no longer used.

Another feature in these parts is the use of large slate slabs strung with barbed wire to serve as a fence. (well I found that interesting).

Another construction interest is there is wide building of new road networks here. Lots of prestressed concrete being used here. Hopefully they are using a different contractor to that used for the ones we saw collapsed a few days back.

We passed through lots of forests, some of which are being harvested. You can’t see it from this shot but there is a bloke reversing a trailer laden with wood with a small tractor. He was rubbish at reversing and kept hitting the massive pile of logs.


Great sign made from Core 10 (low chromium steel).

Interesting fact about Portomarin – most of the historic buildings here were relocated, brick by brick, to allow the construction of a dam which then flooded the old town. The water of said dam is below. Second interesting fact about Portomarin – there is a bloke driving a small white van who is confused as to what side of the road to drive on. I’m puzzled at how he could steer as he used both arms to wave at us, presumably using semaphore. A twat.

More harvesting, this time Eucalyptus trees.

Rain was forecast for 1400hrs, and we weaved past many rain clouds, only catching the odd drop of rain. 5 mins from our digs in Arzua it got very grey and dark. Then the lightening sparked up which rather encouraged a faster pace. As we got within 100m of our digs the heavens opened up. It was a mad race for the reception porch. We made it, just moist. It was a really good day’s riding today – 86kms with 1,720m of climbing, including quite a few climbs of 8-12%. No team talk required today, spirits are high. The team is happy, the leg muscles are a bit sore.
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